Building your own worm compost (vermicompost) bin is an easy way to get a continuous supply of this great organic fertilizer.

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As a veteran gardener , I ’ve try out most of the organic fertilizers that are on the marketplace . While all produced practiced results , the one that has been most impressive are the product of worm composting , dirt ball castings and “ worm tea ” . The big vantage of insect composting ( vermicompost ) is that this can be done indoors , allowing you to compost year - round . Vermicompost contains urine - soluble food and bacteria , and is an first-class , nutritious - rich organic fertiliser and territory conditioner . One pound of red louse can consume 1/4 lb . to 1/2 lb . of permissive waste each day . They convert this waste into organic hummus , rich in nutrients and beneficial microbes .

The Worms

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One of the common misconceptions that new “ vermicomposting beginners ” have is that any earthworm can be used for worm composting ( or kept inside for that matter ) . Umm , not exactly . The worms found in your garden and cubic yard are the “ anecic ” type . They are soil dwell worms that burrow in the ground , and tend to savour their space . The worms used for composting are the “ epigeic ” eccentric . They tend to live in rich constitutive material ( not soil ) , and are used to being packed - in with their friends . The most common variety of compost worm isEisenia fetida ; also make out as the red louse or red wiggler .

Bin Set - up

There are n’t any “ faulty ” sizes to use for your worm bin ; however , emphasis should be put on the surface area . Better surface area allows for greater oxygenation of the bin , and also allows the worms to propagate out more . This is why a bathing tub will be much better than a bucketful . Since red worms ( and earthworms in general ) are very sensitive to direct light , the binful should be opaque , not clean-cut , and have a cover version to prevent light from get in . You ’ll want a bin with a lid that can easily be remove .

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Environment

You should gauge using about a pound sign of louse for every satisfying animal foot of surface area . The bank identification number used in this Charles William Post was about 2 solid feet . Composting insect need food , but also need some type of habitat to survive in . The “ bedding ” material we ’re gon na use furnish both . The ideal life surround includes lots of bedding material , wastefulness textile , and water to exert adequate moisture . Worms choose a disconsolate , cool place in the range of 40 - 80 degrees F.

Without further fuss , let ’s get to building our binful .

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The leaning of things you ’ll need :

• 18 Gallon charge card storage bin / bathtub and lid ( I really care the Rubbermaid Roughneck tug bins)• Drill and drill bits• Plastic bin or bowl ( for wetting newspaper , composition board , etc.)• Newspaper and cardboard ( for bedding)• Water ( regular city / tap pee is fine)• Compost ( enough to fill the bottom of the binful to 2″-3″)• 1 - 2 Pounds of red wiggler worms

Skill Level :

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Easy

Procedure :

1 . Using your drill , put 1/8″-1/4″ hole in the lid for air and ventilation , about every 2 - 3 inches . Then , put a course ( or two ) of pickle along the top of bin ( PHOTO A ) .

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Note : You may have interpret that you also require to put holes in the bottom of the bin for the “ leachate ” ( liquid from the castings ) , and therefore need to have a tray or 2nd bank identification number to catch it . In my experience , this is not necessary . The inner bottom of the binful will not get over - saturated or ‘ waterlogged ’ if you wet the bedding material correctly . If you bid , you could line the inside bottom of the bin with a layer or two of composition board .

2 .   Pour about 2″ of compost into the bank identification number and point it off . This becomes the base for the worms to live and make for in ( PHOTO B ) . If you have purchased worm , either locally or online , they may already be packaged around some compost . In this causa , you could certainly use that compost and mix it in with the compost you ’ve machinate ( I would actually recommend that ) .

3 . Time for the worms . Place the louse on ( or in ) the compost home ( PHOTO C ) . They will disappear almost immediately into the compost and away from the brightness level .

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4 . Bed(ding ) time . fill up the other bin or container with water ( up to 2 - 3″ should be ok ) . Taking the newspaper , tear it into landing strip about an in or so wide ( PHOTO D ) . You ’ll notice that the paper has a “ grain ” to it , and it be given to tear much easy along the grain . The grain of the newspaper I used go top to bottom . Other examples of good bedding to add are : tear up cardboard and fall leaves . you’re able to simply shred cardboard and leave into modest 1″-3″ slice .

5 . Dip the newspaper publisher into the pee and allow it to pluck for a few minute . The moisture level of the louse lie with should be like a wrung out sponge . deform out the newspaper publisher until most of the water supply has dripped off from it , then place it in the bin ( PHOTO E ) . It will be in a wet satisfying ball , so sort out as much of the pieces as potential .

6 . keep with STEP # 5 until you ’ve build up a stratum of 6 - 8 inches of moist bedding ( PHOTO F ) . I filled the bin right up to , but not covering , the holes drilled in the sides of the bin ( PHOTO G).Note : I wet the top - most funnies of paper with a nebulizer , rather than soaking them ( not shown in pic ) .

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Photo/Illustration: Greg Holdsworth (All photos)

7 . At this point , your bin is fundamentally done . You do n’t want to give the worms any “ food ” at this item . I ’ve been told that you should wait a week for the worms to get steady down in before you commence adding food waste for them to feed on .

Speaking of food , here ’s a canonic rundown of what is , and is n’t , recommended :

YES

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• Vegetable & fruit waste ( Citrus yield should be total only in relief . You should leave out pineapple and mangos entirely)• Starchy food materials – bread , pasta , rice , potatoes , etc . are fine , but also in moderation• shred newspaper and cardboard ( I ’m mentioning these again because it ’s a good idea to tot these carbon rich materials at the same metre you summate any blotto food waste)• Egg scale ( dry land up ) – in moderation• Coffee grounds / filter – again , in moderation• Tea bags

NO

• Human / pet waste• Non biodegradable materials• Dairy or essence products• oil or grease• Any chemical substance

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